There's something to be said for the specific qualities of Detroit-style pizza: the crackly crust that's thick but riddled with air pockets so it's not heavy, the caramelized cheese that cooks up against the hot steel pan, and the tangy sauce that forms thick rivers down the middle of each slice. And when someone dedicated to perfecting the style, like Blue Pan's Jeff "Smoke" Smokevitch, almost single-handedly introduces Detroit pizza to Denver — with a major assist from his business partner, Giles Flanagin — it's worth listening up, then eating up. If, for some odd reason, you're not a fan of the rectangular pies, Blue Pan also does a stellar job with New York and Chicago cracker-thin crusts, and even the gluten-free pizzas are a cut above. Service is takeout- and delivery-only for now, but the pizzas are just as good at home as they are at the restaurant.