Even before it debuted in June 2023, Ni and Anna Nguyen’s Sắp Sửa garnered national attention as one of Bon Appétit’s most anticipated openings of the year. It’s serving what it calls non-traditional Vietnamese food; on the menu, traditional names of dishes are listed in quotations before the description of the team’s take on flavors that pay homage to Ni’s upbringing. Just one winning example: the bắp cải luộc, a beautiful cabbage dish based on the simple, fast and affordable version that his mother often made for him. ($$$)