Old Major's Mushrooms and Sunchokes Are Some of Our Favorite Dishes | Westword
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100 Favorite Dishes: Sunchokes and Mushrooms at Old Major

No. 9: Two Vegetable Dishes at Old Major Old Major has built a reputation with pork and other meats, displaying its mastery of steakhouse cuts, cured Italian salumi and nose-to-tail cookery. But Justin Brunson's four-year-old LoHi restaurant is more than just a one-trick piggy; it's a destination eatery where diners...
Sunchokes and kale at Old Major.
Sunchokes and kale at Old Major. Mark Antonation
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No. 9: Two Vegetable Dishes at Old Major
Old Major has built a reputation with pork and other meats, displaying its mastery of steakhouse cuts, cured Italian salumi and nose-to-tail cookery. But Justin Brunson's four-year-old LoHi restaurant is more than just a one-trick piggy; it's a destination eatery where diners expect everything on the plate to equal the meaty stars. So you can bet that vegetable dishes created and prepared on chef de cuisine Amos Watts's watch will be just as good as everything else on the menu.

The use of seasonal ingredients is one of the keys to building a flavorful dish. In the winter and early spring, root vegetables like sunchokes are a great option. The sunchoke dish currently on Old Major's small-plates menu presents the nutty vegetable in roasted pieces almost like breakfast potatoes and as fried chips showered atop lightly dressed lacinato kale, the bumpy variety of the leafy green that's hearty enough to make it through most winters. Spicing up the earthy mixture is a yogurt sauce spiked with Peruvian aji amarillo peppers; a few small dollops of herbal pesto brighten the dish.

Equally impressive is a side dish of creamed black trumpet mushrooms, a simple preparation that fills the room with a strong mushroom aroma that nearly approaches the truffle in its intoxicating fragrance. A breadcrumb topping adds just enough textural contrast to the otherwise uninterrupted wave of pure black trumpet — like a stroll in the dark woods at the height of foraging season.

We'll never stray far from Old Major's porky path, but an occasional detour into the vegetable realm proves a satisfying journey, too.
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Creamed black trumpet mushrooms at Old Major.
Mark Antonation

Hungry for more? All of the dishes in our 2016 countdown are linked below.


No. 100: Masala Beef at Biju's Little Curry Shop
No. 99: Bacon Shrimp and Grits at Bacon Social House
No. 98: Porchetta and Kimchi Sandwich at Brider
No. 97: Squab-and-Sunchoke Tortellini at Abejas
No. 96: Housemade Burrata at Viand
No. 95: Schweinshaxe at Rhein Haus
No. 94 Kimchi Jeon at Seoul BBQ
No. 93: Zuppa Pomodoro at Parisi Italian Market & Deli
No. 92: The Ocean Salad at Sushi-Rama
No. 91: The Signature Bowl from Churn & Burn
No. 90: Green Chorizo at Los Compadres
No. 89: The Diavola Calzone at Pino's Neighborhood Pizzeria
No. 88: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery
No. 87: Chirashi at Izu Sushi
No. 86: Brisket and Ribs at GQue Championship BBQ
No. 85: The Tornado at the Chowder Room
No. 84: Korean Fried Chicken Wings at Yong Gung
No. 83: A Meatball Hero at Lil' Ricci's New York Pizzeria
No. 82: Shakshuka at Stowaway Coffee + Kitchen
No. 81: Late-Night Ramen at Brazen
No. 80: Potato Tacos at El Tejado
No. 79: Corned Beef Heart at theWay Back
No. 78: The Fried Bologna Sandwich at Snarfburger
No. 77: Sweet Corn Mezzaluna at Bar Dough
No. 76: Duck Confit at Table 6
No. 75: Croque Monsieur at Fire
No. 74: Tahini Cookies at the Preservery
No. 73: The Alferd Packer Salad at MAD Greens
No. 72: The Tuna Poke Bowl at Ohana Island Kitchen
No. 71: Mini Chile Rellenos at La Loma
No. 70: The Combination Banh Mi at Vinh Xuong Bakery
No. 69: The Falafel Waffle at Moxie Eatery
No. 68: Korean Fried Duck Wings at Chow Urban Grill
No. 67:  Spaghetti Alla Carbonara at Spatola
No. 66: The Classic Burger from Skirted Heifer
No. 65: The Chicken Salad Stuffed Avocado at Poppies
No. 64: Super Pass Key Special at Pass Key
No. 63: How the West Was Won at Dozens Restaurant
No. 62: Manzo With Polenta at Spuntino
No. 61: P & S Snack Mix at the Pig & the Sprout
No. 59-60: Sloppers at Gray's Coors Tavern and Diego's
No. 58: Potstickers at Zoe Ma Ma
No. 57: Griddle Cooked Bullfrog at Yum Yum Spice
No. 56: Macaroni and Cheese at Work & Class
No. 55: Lobster, Egg and Caviar Bruschetta at Bar Fausto
No. 54: Orecchiette at Coperta
No. 53: Cheese Steak at Steuben's Food Service
No. 52: PB&B Acai Bowl at ProsperOats
No. 51: Gold Miner's Breakfast at River and Woods
No. 50: Bison Pastrami at To The Wind Bistro
No. 49: Spicy Beef Hot Pot at Bronze Empire
No. 48: Brad's Neo Gyro at Avelina
No. 47: The Egg and Croissant Sandwich at La Fillette Bakery
No. 46: Smoked Brisket Stroganoff Pot Pie From Humble Pie and Kitchen Table
No. 45: Hisbiscus-Flower Tacos at Comal
No. 44: The Juicy Lucy at the Midwestern Saloon
No. 43: Italian combo #2 at Carbone's
No. 42: Huevos Rancheros at Las Potrancas
No. 41: The Roti Taco at Mister Tuna
No. 40: Mile High Nachos at Racines
No. 39: Classic Rooster at Royal Rooster
No. 38: Toomkha Soup at US Thai Cafe
No. 37: Smoked Lamb Shank at Roaming Buffalo Bar-B-Que
No. 36: Banh Mi Tacos at Vital Root
No. 35: Barbecue Sandwiches at Globe Hall
No. 34: Ebelskivers at Three Little Griddles
No. 33: Bagna Cauda Broccoli Rabe at Dio Mio Handmade Pasta
No. 32: Flavorsome Ramen at Sera's Ramen Enclave
No. 31: Chicken Tenders at the Fainting Goat
No. 30: Sesame Chicken at Red Dragon
No. 29-28: Last Great Lunch of 2016, First Great Plate of 2017
No. 27: Rocky Mountain Oysters at Lulu's Inn
No. 26: The Shawarma Sandwich at Edri's International Market
No. 25: Panuchos at Que Bueno Suerte
No. 24: Fish and Chips at Public School 303
No. 23: The Sloppy Joe at Thunderbird Imperial Lounge
No. 22: Empanadas at Lazo Empanadas
No. 21: Fried Chicken Banh Mi at the Post Chicken & Beer
No. 20: All You Can Eat at Guadalajara Mexican Buffet
No 19: The Breakfast Sandwich at Stella's on 16th
No. 18: The Chicken Fried Steak Breakfast at Lancer's Diner
No. 17: Kimchi Brussels Sprouts at Stoic & Genuine
No. 16: Aborrajados at Antojitos Colombianos
No. 15: I'm Peach Mint Sorbet at High Point Creamery
No. 14: Sardine Toast at Ash Mobile Kitchen
No. 13: Limoncello Wings at Racca's Pizzeria Napoletana
No. 12: Beef Tallow Candle at Il Posto
No. 11: Bone Marrow With Short Rib Marmalade at Vesta
No. 10: Tuesday Night Thai Chicken at Cho77
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