Bistro King is one of those timeless neighborhood joints that seems to have always been there, and its menu of typical American-Chinese dishes interspersed with a little Thai, Vietnamese and even sushi does nothing to help it stand out. But last year, a new menu all in Mandarin appeared, giving in-the-know seekers of Sichuan specialties a new destination. Among the noodles and hot pots, something different lurks: jinsha corn. This dish would sell well at any bar, where salty, savory snacks are just the right foil for cold beers. Also called golden sand corn, it's a mound of wok-fried corn kernels coated in salted egg yolk and light seasonings — and a dusting of sugar, if that's your preference (it should be).